Located in Château des Avenières, situated in a wooded area between Geneva and Annecy, the restaurant 'M' is quietly making the transition from conventional gourmet top-class cuisine to a highly modern and relaxed bistro style.
To design a wine list consistent with this new focus, the sommelier and recently appointed director, Marc Henri Mialon, showcases the vibrant energy of Savoy vineyards and their close neighbors in Switzerland and Italy.
Located more than 1,000 meters above sea level, in a setting where every detail has been carefully composed to combine charm and convenience, we met in front of the chateau's chapel where the EuroCave wine cabinets take center stage.
Produce grown 100 meters from the plate
"Most of the vegetables and herbs we cook with come from less than 30 km from the chateau, and some are grown in the estate's own vegetable gardens. This guarantees their local origin and ensures that the cuisine is always seasonal. The chef, who has lived in Ukraine for 20 years, combines his international culinary inspiration with local products. One dish that stands out in particular is his vegetarian course, a flavorful blend of herbs and sweet potato that is a hit with every serving!"
The revival of vineyards around Lake Annecy
"We think it is important to promote local wines and the remarkable vitality that drives the Annecy region. We recently added to our list the first wines from five winemakers who have committed to replanting vineyards. These are wines with spirit made from local grape varieties such as Jacquère and Mondeuse - the intention being to make them accessible and less elitist. I think in particular of Francis Rousset, a vintner who planted a vineyard here with grape varieties from neighboring Switzerland after crossing Russia on foot. All we have to do now is make sure Lake Annecy is recognized as a full-fledged appellation !"
The vineyards next door
"Our wine list reflects a wide variety of vineyard locations, with regional wines at the forefront. One of these is the Royal Sessel sparkling wine, made using the traditional method, which we serve as an aperitif. The wine, now produced by Karine and Régis Bernard, was originally dedicated to Queen Victoria when she visited Haute-Savoie. What could be more natural than to serve a royal wine within the castle walls! We are also expanding our selection to include Swiss and Italian wines. Wines that come to mind in particular are those of Nikita Novelle, one of my former students at the Lausanne hospitality academy. These foreign vineyards are only 15 kilometers from Geneva, so they are actually much closer than some French wine regions like the Loire Valley!"
Sake, the unsung treasure
"Sake is a category in its own right for sommeliers, but it is rarely exhibited here. And yet it is a remarkable drink, halfway between wine and beer. Made from different rice varieties - nearly 50 are used in Japan's various prefectures - the best sakes show great elegance with beautiful fruit textures. In terms of pairings, sake offers countless possibilities - it is a great partner for puddings, oysters and cheeses, where its milky notes come into their own!
EuroCave cabinets for the esoteric chapel
"I decided to place the EuroCave cabinets in a strategic place in the chateau - the visible part, at the entrance to the chapel, where people pass by. Currently the cabinetmakers are working on the furniture in which the cabinets will be placed. We need practical, quick and effective serving tables that are easily accessible to the head waiters during the service. Three wine cabinets have been installed so that temperatures can be separated for red wines, white wines and champagnes. We also chose to limit the number of wines on the list to 300-400 to keep it consistent and in step with the restaurant's conversion to bistro, so we are not systematically looking for top bourgognes or bordeaux, although I have allowed myself to include a few Château d'Yquem - old habits die hard!"
