with Richard Geoffroy - France & Japan
Richard Geoffroy doesn't do anything by halves. He proved that during his nearly thirty years as Dom Pérignon's prestigious chef de cave.
In 2018, however, he felt it was time for a new chapter - and Japan had fascinated him for years. Geoffroy had long studied the world of sake, and his dream of approaching this iconic Japanese beverage in an innovative way grew into a concrete project. What was still missing were the right people to realize it with - until he met architect Kengo Kuma, followed by Ryuichiro Masuda, the fifth generation at the head of the Masuda Shuzo family business. Together they founded IWA, whose first brewery opened in Toyama Prefecture in 2019.
We spoke with Richard Geoffroy about his journey into the world of sake, the art of blending, the intersections between sake and wine, and his personal favorites - and discovered that sake is much more than the preconceptions attached to it.
1. Wine and sake - the art of drinkability
"Wine and sake ultimately strive for the same thing: harmony, balance and complexity. Of course there are big differences between rice and grapes, and between brewing and winemaking, but the core principles of blending are identical - understanding what each component adds, and then turning it into a balanced whole. Harmonie has always been a guiding principle in my life. For me, it is essential that a drink be pleasantly drinkable: smooth, silky, without sharp edges or rough edges."
2. Sake, the spontaneous drink
"Sake is traditionally a 'spontaneous' drink - something you drink without thinking about it, sip after sip. It matches food, but never imposes itself; it supports the dish rather than competing with it. That also remains my guiding principle at IWA: a sake that blends effortlessly with all kinds of cuisines, Japanese or not, without ever taking precedence."
3. IWA, sake for wine enthusiasts
"IWA offers a different balance between aroma and mouthfeel, with more depth and structure on the palate. The finest junmai daiginjo - sakes made from at least 50 percent polished rice, with no added alcohol - have unparalleled fluidity. I greatly admire that craftsmanship, but I have consciously chosen a different path. My focus is on balance, complexity and satisfaction. IWA is not overly sophisticated, but neither is it simple - it is just the right amount of well-dosed complexity."
4. Drinkability according to Masuizumi Platina Junmai Daiginjo Platinum Nama
"This limited edition sake is soft, silky and round on the palate. Brewed in Toyama Prefecture for chef Tetsuya, it embodies Masuda-san's mastery of creating sakes with an exceptionally smooth texture and accessible style. (Masuda-san is co-founder of IWA.) This sake is a textbook example of what makes sake so special: pure, delicate and without harshness - you drink it with ease, and continue to enjoy it."
5. The perfect balance - 2023 Kamoshibito Kuheiji Sauvage
This junmai daiginjo, made from at least 50% polished Omachi rice with no added alcohol, is seductively expressive and slightly effervescent - almost like a "grand cru. "This is one of the most balanced, non-blended sakes I know. It is impressive in its precision and balance. You taste the dedication - the deep reverence for the rice and the way it is grown."
6. Elegance at its finest - Daishichi 'Minowamon' Junmai Daiginjo
Since 1995, Daishichi has been making this Minowamon from Yamada Nishiki rice, using an ultra-fine polishing technique. "The result is extraordinarily elegant, with notes of tropical fruit, banana and mango. I found this sake incredibly refined - vibrant, complex and with a character all its own," Geoffroy says.
7. Be surprised by IWA 5 'Assemblage 5' Junmai Daiginjo
Geoffroy's art of blending comes full circle in the latest edition of IWA's flagship sake: Junmai Daiginjo Assemblage 5. This fifth version is made from the finest sake rice and a combination of sake and wine yeasts, resulting in a perfectly balanced, refined flavor with notes of plum, rose petal, geranium and jasmine.
"The goal is to continue to surprise ourselves and explore new territory. Assembly 5 feels like the next step in the evolution of sake. We express ourselves through the brewing process, which reflects our spirit. When vision and execution coincide, new benchmarks are created - and we can raise the bar again and again."
