For nearly two decades, Canadian sommelier Michelle Bouffard has been pondering the connections between wine and climate. She ponders both the impact of climate change on vines, and that of viticulture on the environment.
Her reflections led to the creation of the biennial symposium Tasting Climate Change, through which she brings together wine professionals to create awareness of climate challenges as well as encourage them to take action. More than that, she wants to show them concrete opportunities to make sustainable, environmentally friendly wine that is also sustainable in the long term.
In this area, she sees that innovation and collaboration are already in full swing worldwide. For example, winemakers in Gigondas can take inspiration from Australian techniques for dealing with drought.
From this story of resilience among the vines, Michelle shares five key hopeful directions to shape the wine of the future - and it starts now.
-
Regenerative viticulture as a sustainable solution
"First, you have to ask yourself a simple but fundamental question: what is sustainable viticulture? In my mind, the best answer is regenerative farming. In this, you feed the soil so that the vines become more self-reliant and resilient. Above all, this means reducing or even completely eliminating external inputs and introducing plants between the vines, much like animals grazing between the vines.
More and more winemakers are adopting this approach and putting the soil at the center of the system, because with wine everything starts with the life in the soil. For example, the fascinating microbiologist Marc-André Selosse, who spoke at my last Tasting Climate Change conference, demonstrated convincingly that when you have living soil - rich in microorganisms - the rest follows naturally."
-
How winemakers are leading the way and setting an example
"What I find most inspiring is seeing how winemakers - both men and women - know how to adapt to extreme conditions. Water is becoming increasingly scarce, and yet there are already regions that manage to reduce water loss and strengthen the resilience of vines.
I think, for example, of areas struggling with drought, such as the Canary Islands, Santorini, South Africa and Australia. Pioneers like Vanya Cullen (Cullen Wines) in Australia and Johan Reyneke (Reyneke Wines) in South Africa have chosen to abandon pesticides and are fully committed to biodynamics and regenerative agriculture.
Soil cover crops, for example, increase organic matter, promote microbial life, and help vines retain water better - even if only a little falls. This gets the soil aerated and balances the ecosystem."
-
Knowledge sharing as a tool for resilience
"In addition to drought, some wine regions are experiencing unprecedented harvest losses due to downy mildew caused by wet conditions. If you want to adapt in the long run, you have to be open to techniques from other regions.
I believe that by bringing everyone to the table together, we can find solutions and inspire change. For example, I helped set up a course on water management for winemakers in Gigondas, based on Australian techniques. The goal is not to copy one-to-one, but to be open to other methods and adapt them to one's own vineyard.
Sowing suitable, native ground covers between rows not only increases soil organic matter, but also prevents erosion, reduces evaporation and helps water penetrate the soil when it rains."
-
A new, down-to-earth generation with a mission
"The new generation in the wine world is much more aware of climate issues. It is no longer a fringe topic, but a core issue. Young professionals know they have to produce differently, rethink techniques and question their heritage.
What I especially appreciate is their curiosity - they go out, see what's happening elsewhere, try things out.
I think of Michel Gassier, a wine grower in the Costières de Nîmes. When his daughter returned from an internship in California, she encouraged him to review his practices. She said, "Dad, we work organically, but that's not enough. We need to switch to regenerative viticulture." That constant self-reflection ultimately makes all the difference."
-
Enlightened - and enlightening - consumer choices
"Consumers play a crucial role by voting with their wallets! More and more people want to make conscious choices and support environmentally friendly products.
In North America, the label "sustainable" is hugely successful because it is seen as a holistic approach - even more powerful than the French "durable," although it literally means the same thing.
Certification aside, we often surround ourselves with like-minded people. But sometimes those very uncomfortable or difficult conversations can be the spark that leads to change."
